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Ginger Phil
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 3:46 pm    Post subject: How to change your oil Reply with quote

To an expert this might seem the easiest job in the world but if you're a newbie to scooters (like I am) then even this simple job can seem a bit daunting at first. :-[

To start with you'll need a bottle of oil. I'm a cheapskate so I buy Halfords own brand 10w/40, 4-stroke oil for 4.99 a litre.

To change the oil simply undo this big nut under the bike and let it drain:



Once all the oil has drained tighten the nut back up and unscrew the dipstick (I still love that word!!) ;D
Your bike should need around half a litre of oil poured in, keep inserting the dipstick until the oil level reaches around halfway up the thin part:



And that's all there is to it. Cool

** Remember to change your oil after the first 186 miles (300 kilometres) **




Last edited by Ginger Phil on Thu Oct 26, 2006 6:48 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Jialing



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having changed the oil on my baotian I noticed that you get some metal flakes in the bottom of the large sump plug.

I'm looking for a small magnet that I can stick in the bottom of the sump plug in order to collect any small metal pieces and stop them from doing any damage to the engine.

Sometimes prevention is better than the cure cheaper too.


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px166bajaj
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its a good plan, but be careful the magnet doesnt come free and start floating around in your engine!



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Scootin
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That would not be good



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Jialing



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

have you ever heard of araldite? its good stuff for sticking fingz 2geffer


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px166bajaj
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, but will it stand up to the heat, vibration and oil of the inside of your engine?



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Jialing



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

we are forgetting one thing!!!! if it goes inside the spring that holds the filter up thats added protection. :D


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px166bajaj
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok point taken! Cool



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pedder_boy_uk



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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those metal flakes occure in all 4 stroke engines when you do the "break in" process. It's nothing to worry about, all those metal flakes should go after the first few oil changes.


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scoot43



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Location: La Crosse WI, USA (On the original west coast)

PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found a refrigerator magnet that fit in the plug and was held down by the spring. Third oil change still was showing some black powder. We used to run magnetic oil plugs on air cooled VWs back in the day and they always had something on them. Something I would rather have on my cleaning rag than in the engine.


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px166bajaj
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Correct me if I'm wrong, but what iron/steel parts are there which wear in the engine? Most of the moving parts which create swarf are alloy. (Piston, barrel etc etc)



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Jialing



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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

crankshaft, gudeon, pins, conrods, valve push rods, tappets, to name a few there might be others and they all wear through friction. Some Barrels are cast too, depending on the maker of the engine. Razz


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scoot43



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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

piston rings, valves, cam chain, cam, and I am hoping the cyl is a ferrous alloy. I could be wrong I have only worked on cars and harleys till now.


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Jialing



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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I could be wrong on this but piston rings are made of hardened steel.
Therefore if the cylinder was made of an alloy it would wear out in no time at all.

Therefore, they either use a cast iron block and bore it out or use an alloy block and fit a cylinder liner to the block as they do with some cars.

Renault were famed for wet liners in their cars for example.

Thanks to scoots for bringing the piston rings to my attention Razz


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larry8



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 11:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sometimes the engine manufacturer does not clean out the engine castings very well and some of the machining particles are left in, which add to the wear particles you find in the first 2 or 3 oil changes.
Thats why I always change the oil at 1/2 the mileage listed in the owners manual for the first 3 oil changes.



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