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Ginger Phil Site Admin

Joined: 09 Oct 2006 Posts: 1420 Karma: +60
Location: near Great Yarmouth
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Posted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 3:46 pm Post subject: How to change your oil |
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To an expert this might seem the easiest job in the world but if you're a newbie to scooters (like I am) then even this simple job can seem a bit daunting at first. :-[
To start with you'll need a bottle of oil. I'm a cheapskate so I buy Halfords own brand 10w/40, 4-stroke oil for £4.99 a litre.
To change the oil simply undo this big nut under the bike and let it drain:
Once all the oil has drained tighten the nut back up and unscrew the dipstick (I still love that word!!) ;D
Your bike should need around half a litre of oil poured in, keep inserting the dipstick until the oil level reaches around halfway up the thin part:
And that's all there is to it.
** Remember to change your oil after the first 186 miles (300 kilometres) ** _________________

Last edited by Ginger Phil on Thu Oct 26, 2006 6:48 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Jialing
Joined: 09 Oct 2006 Posts: 3109 Karma: +90
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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:35 am Post subject: |
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Having changed the oil on my baotian I noticed that you get some metal flakes in the bottom of the large sump plug.
I'm looking for a small magnet that I can stick in the bottom of the sump plug in order to collect any small metal pieces and stop them from doing any damage to the engine.
Sometimes prevention is better than the cure cheaper too. |
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px166bajaj Moderator

Joined: 09 Oct 2006 Posts: 6208 Karma: +203
Location: Sevenoaks Kent (Er, that's UK!)
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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 12:31 pm Post subject: |
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Its a good plan, but be careful the magnet doesnt come free and start floating around in your engine! _________________
A dealer will say anything to get your money! |
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Scootin Moderator

Joined: 09 Oct 2006 Posts: 4251 Karma: +137
Location: St. Johns MI USA
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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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That would not be good _________________
2006 150cc Hitong SR-150 (Vento Clone)
2005 50cc Taishan Sport XT |
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Jialing
Joined: 09 Oct 2006 Posts: 3109 Karma: +90
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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 3:38 pm Post subject: |
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| have you ever heard of araldite? its good stuff for sticking fingz 2geffer |
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px166bajaj Moderator

Joined: 09 Oct 2006 Posts: 6208 Karma: +203
Location: Sevenoaks Kent (Er, that's UK!)
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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 5:23 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, but will it stand up to the heat, vibration and oil of the inside of your engine? _________________
A dealer will say anything to get your money! |
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Jialing
Joined: 09 Oct 2006 Posts: 3109 Karma: +90
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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 5:28 pm Post subject: |
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good question Phil there's always plastic metal? where theres a will theres a way.  |
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Jialing
Joined: 09 Oct 2006 Posts: 3109 Karma: +90
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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 5:30 pm Post subject: |
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we are forgetting one thing!!!! if it goes inside the spring that holds the filter up thats added protection.  |
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px166bajaj Moderator

Joined: 09 Oct 2006 Posts: 6208 Karma: +203
Location: Sevenoaks Kent (Er, that's UK!)
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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 5:37 pm Post subject: |
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Ok point taken!  _________________
A dealer will say anything to get your money! |
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pedder_boy_uk
Joined: 24 Oct 2006 Posts: 44 Karma: 0
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Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 9:27 am Post subject: |
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| Those metal flakes occure in all 4 stroke engines when you do the "break in" process. It's nothing to worry about, all those metal flakes should go after the first few oil changes. |
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scoot43

Joined: 04 Nov 2006 Posts: 184 Karma: +5
Location: La Crosse WI, USA (On the original west coast)
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Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:15 pm Post subject: |
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| I found a refrigerator magnet that fit in the plug and was held down by the spring. Third oil change still was showing some black powder. We used to run magnetic oil plugs on air cooled VWs back in the day and they always had something on them. Something I would rather have on my cleaning rag than in the engine. |
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px166bajaj Moderator

Joined: 09 Oct 2006 Posts: 6208 Karma: +203
Location: Sevenoaks Kent (Er, that's UK!)
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Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:33 pm Post subject: |
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but what iron/steel parts are there which wear in the engine? Most of the moving parts which create swarf are alloy. (Piston, barrel etc etc) _________________
A dealer will say anything to get your money! |
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Jialing
Joined: 09 Oct 2006 Posts: 3109 Karma: +90
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Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:50 pm Post subject: |
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crankshaft, gudeon, pins, conrods, valve push rods, tappets, to name a few there might be others and they all wear through friction. Some Barrels are cast too, depending on the maker of the engine.  |
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scoot43

Joined: 04 Nov 2006 Posts: 184 Karma: +5
Location: La Crosse WI, USA (On the original west coast)
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Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:50 pm Post subject: |
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| piston rings, valves, cam chain, cam, and I am hoping the cyl is a ferrous alloy. I could be wrong I have only worked on cars and harleys till now. |
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Jialing
Joined: 09 Oct 2006 Posts: 3109 Karma: +90
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Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 10:04 pm Post subject: |
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I could be wrong on this but piston rings are made of hardened steel.
Therefore if the cylinder was made of an alloy it would wear out in no time at all.
Therefore, they either use a cast iron block and bore it out or use an alloy block and fit a cylinder liner to the block as they do with some cars.
Renault were famed for wet liners in their cars for example.
Thanks to scoots for bringing the piston rings to my attention  |
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